I was really looking forward to these brackets taking away some noise from the oem front brackets. Kind of unfortunate that these don't work. Other than that, quality of the brackets are top notch, but they don't work. I was able to bolt on bracket up to the hardtop, but it pulled the hardtop so far forward that it was sitting on top of the A-Pillars. I went ahead and tried to just fully install one bracket with nothing on the other side and it even had trouble with the bolt holes lining up properly. The bracket and the bolt holes were 2-4mm off and it was hitting the inside direction interior. I had one side bolted and kept it loose for some free play and went to the other side and there's no way it can line up. I tried everything and couldn't get the brackets to work. I had the hardtop completely unbolted so I can play with the fitment. Has anyone installed these on their mr2 spyder yet? Idk if I got a bad front set, but I went and tried to install them today and the fitment was way off. These brackets are 125 euros plus shipping for a full set of fronts and rears, though it's also possible of course to get just the fronts or just the rears for 70 euros. These brackets are 145 euros plus shipping for a full set of fronts and rears, though it's also possible of course to get just the fronts or just the rears for 80 euros. Have someone apply a bit of downward pressure on the hardtop when bolting on the rear brackets, so the hardtop will have a good seal.įinally: the rear brackets are marked "R" and "L" to avoid confusion during installation. Secondly: The holes of the rear brackets have some play. If I recall correctly, they're Torx 40 for the front latches and Torx 30 for the rear ones. For this reason you should be extremely careful undoing these bolts as they strip very easily. Here are some tips that might save a bit of hassle: The OEM bolts that Toyota used for the stock latches are made of very soft steel. For that purpose they come with all the bolts and washers required. Made of aluminium 5mm (front) and 6mm (rear) thick, they don't require any modification to your car and bolt right on. They have been some time in the making, but are now available: Both front and rear hardtop brackets. 8)īest money spend on the car yet and the install took me less than 45 minutes including cleanup.For the very few of you who might, as I do, run your hardtop permanently, here's a chance to save a fair bit of weight and lose the rattles of the latches at the same time. Even as it is with a stock alignment the car is exponentially more fun in the twisties than it was stock. Once I have settled on an alignment I like I can use the bar to fine tune the car to my preferences. The change isn't drastic but it is like someone just raised the handling bar another notch or two. The car is certainly less prone to understeer under mid corner acceleration. That limit is easily 5mph higher now and much more safe feeling. I took the car to a few familiar curves that I drive everyday and have learned the cars limit on. With the settings as I have it the car is very neutral. This makes the car feel more precise and quicker to respond in my opinion.and I love it. At speed the car is much flatter when you cut the wheel as expected. The car doesn't ride any stiffer as far as I can tell. I have the front bar at full stiff and the rear bar at the second softest setting. Install of the rear bar took me 10 minutes. Just unbolt the rear endlinks and rear brackets and rotate the bar a bit as you slide it out. and the Whiteline was a bit heavier at 6.2 lbs.
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